Lengths: 0-156cm Shape: Unknown. Outline: Unknown. Flex: 3.5/5 Base Profile: PowRock (same as the 420) Core: Full Poplar. Glass: Triax. Base Material: Extruded.
THIS BOARD HAS NO WARRANTY!
Warranties cover defects in materials and manufacturers workmanship. Since we can’t warranty your workmanship, we can’t warranty the board. You are completing the manufacturing process and therefore are responsible for the quality of this product. Seal the exposed wood core or the board could delaminate due to water penetrating. The Clark is made with the same high-quality wood, fiberglass, resin, topsheet and p-tex we use on all our fully warrantied boards. If your keep the exposed wood edge sealed and take care of the product by keeping it dry when not in use, it could last a lifetime.
The goal for the Clark is to create an open-source community. If you have anything to add to this process in terms of tips, pointers or tools that work better, please add them to the comment area. We’ll keep posting more ideas and shapes to download as more Clarks are made.
Don’t come back and try to sue us because you’re an idiot. We made this product for people that can think for themselves and be responsible for themselves.
Snowboards are made from wood, fiberglass, resin and plastics. Cutting these materials causes dust that you can choke on and itches your skin.
Cutting this product also may create sharp bits that can cut you.
The tools themselves can be sharp and unfriendly to dummies that aren’t careful.
So be careful, pay attention to what you’re doing and wear appropriate safety gear.
Tools + materials needed:
Pencil, or marker.
Template – or hell, just free-hand it on the topsheet.
Hole saw – if you’re doing a swallow-tail
Jig saw – buy a bunch of extra blades. You’ll go through about 5 of them.
Electricity – preferably from your solar panels or some other renewable resource.
File, rasp or Sureform.
A few grades of Sandpaper
Long-sleeved shirt and jeans (cutting fiberglass can be very itchy on some skin types)
Marine grade paint, water sealer, or something to seal the exposed wood sidewalls from water damage.
A weekend. – Don’t try and bust this out in an hour or two. Take your time and enjoy the process.
Steps: (at least for the first couple we’ve made anyway)
Dream up your shape and draw it out full size on paper.
Or draw it up on any number of programs (Illustrator, Sketch-up, CAD, Solid works, whatever…) and get it printed out at your local printers (like Kinkos).
If you can’t use a program, get one of our templates printed out and just use that as a starting point. Change the tail shape, the nose, width, whatever.
Transfer you shape to the board carefully with a pencil or marker. Or tape the sheet of paper to the deck and cut directly onto your design.
Cut out with the jigsaw. Give yourself about 1/8” or 3 mm outside the line to cleanup by hand. Change the blades often – you’ll probably go through a few of them.
TAKE YOUR TIME! The more careful you are when cutting the shape with the saw, the less hand shaping you’ll have to do and the more accurate your board will come out.
Use a rasp or Sureform tool to get the shape right to your drawn outlines.
Use 80-grit sand paper to clean up the shape to 90%.
Use 120-grit to clean it up to 95%.
Use 200-grit to finish it.
Seal the exposed edges with something seriously waterproof. Tell us what you used.
Take pictures and post with the hashtag #YesClark! – we wanna see it!
Sticker it up, or break out the paints and go to work.
Put a NoBoard pad on ‘er and go shred.
Or set up your Now bindings with the Highcups and free your mind.